Córdoba

I am the kind of guy who picks olives off his pizza and plucks them out of his salad. But in the hillside between Jaén and Córdoba, surrounded in all directions by olive fields, neatly planted in rows that when seen from above must make the undulating hillside look like a grid, I could not avoid the overwhelming scent. I just gave in, and for a few wonderful kilometers, I fell in love with that smell. Though not a total convert, I now have much more respect for the olive.

The 100 kilometers to Córdoba were still, quiet, and generally flat. Only a small hill entering the city made me go into the smallest gear, but it was well worth it given the amazing panoramic view of the city. It also happened to coincide with hitting exactly 3000km, worthy of a small celebration consisting of banana covered in nutella.

The first sign that Córdoba was a tourist destination was that I was unable to find a room, something I have gotten in the habit of doing, even though I have all my camping gear, just in case I find a bargain. The second sign was that the only campsite near the city charged more than what hostels charged in other city: 18.75€ per night! I made the most of my small parcel of land and hot shower, though, and was able to justify some of the cost thanks to the generosity of the guy at the desk who told me that I could save 8€ by visiting the cathedral before 9am on Saturday morning. After the warm shower and a freshly baked baguette, I was overcome with fatigue, and at 8pm decided to "take a nap".

Well-rested and hungry, I was up and out ealry to see the Cathedral. Originally a Mosque, after the reconquest, a Cathedral was built inside of the Mosque. Maybe it was the enormous historical weight of the building, or perhaps the sheer sanctity of the space, or maybe even the parallels with that underground city of the dwaves that Frodo and crew visit in Lord of the Rings. Whatever it was, I was overwhelmed to the verge of tears, filled with the thought that I did not deserve to be there. Then I realized that after my journey, I probably deserved to be there as much if not more than most shutter-happy tourists. I gave myself to the space, and let it guide me in a wandering stroll that let me see its contrasts, its beautiful arches and inscriptions bathed in a cool morning light. All I could think of was, "what were the Christian architects thinking when they tore down part of the Mosque to build a Cathedral inside?"

After my intense experience with the Mosque-Cathedral, I realized that it was not worth rushing to hit up a bunch of tourist sites. I was happy to stroll, and just take in every breath and every sight. If time would not permit me to see everything, I would at least see something new every second. And so it was that I only made it to one other tourist "destination" later that day, the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos, a summer palace for Medieval Spanish royalty. But the entire day I walked around, looking up at the buildings, directly into people´s faces, getting a good feel for what this city is like.

In hindsight, the memories that I will take away from Córdoba are mixed. Similar in size to Burgos, it felt as if there were more tourists than locals. Of course, I am included in the bunch, but this kind demographic really changes a place. I don´t know how I feel about a Burger King right across from the Cathedral, or about a place that sells traditional Córdoba goodies that upon closer inspection are made in China.

Another unpleasant memory is the noise. Narrow streets and tall buildings don't dissipate sound well, especially when that sound is the hair-raising thunder of approaching dirtbikes piloted by teenage kids who get a kick out of scaring tourists. Small cars also contribute to the noise with overamplified reggaeton. Don't get me wrong, I like reggaeton, but the contrast between the history and grandeur of the place don't mix well with these modern noises.

Against these, though, are also the pleasant memories, starting with the breathtaking cathedral, all the way through to the unbelievable sunset from the tower of the Alcazar. This was the first city where I really felt that I just plesantly gave in and let myself be pushed around by the wind without an agenda. Also I will remember the soup that I already mentioned, and a little walk through a park when the sun popped out and made me real happy. There is a reson why UNESCO named this place a world heritage site, and just being here is a treat for the soul.