Headwinds and

There is a whole culture that surrounds the Camino de Santiago.  First, there is the paraphernalia (sp?).  For whatever reasons, the symbol of the Camino is the grand seashell, the one that you see as representative of what seashells should be.  And you see it everywhere.  On the floor, carved in stone, there are seashell highway signs and seashell restaurants and hotels.  Most notably, many of the pilgrims wear large plastic seashells around their necks.  They look corny and fake.

 

Second, there is the language.  On only my second day, I have met pilgrims speaking Spanish, Italian, French, German, English (from UK, Australia, and South Africa.  Gotta love that South African accent!), Japanese, Chinese, Slavic languages that I could not identify, and that´s just what I can remember.  Regardless of which language people speak, though, the trademark greetings are the same.  "Hola" in a sing-songy Spanish intonation that lilts upwards.  "Que tal?" is the Spanish equivalent of the US "what´´s up", because no one seems to actually respond what is up.  The most notable greeting, that I got today in a thick German accent while sitting in a cafe in Leon is "Buen Camino".  Good Road.  I really like this last one.  It is both something literal, but it can also represent a larger scale wish of good fortune.  For cycling specific greetings, I have gotten "Buen viento" from a couple of people, and that is also really nice.

 

Today was NOT good wind.  The morning wind was unfamiliar to me, because I had previously been getting out at 9-10am.  Today, they had us out at 8am, and it was really cold.  Like long-finger gloves, tights, and jacket cold.  Not really what I expected of Spanish summer mornings, but there it was.  The late afternoon wind was strong and head on.  On a slight uphill, I could not break 8kph (5mph).  It was frustrating, but a reminder that it was not about how fast I went.  I knew I would get to my destination, and the hot shower felt all the better.

 

There are two mildly impatient Spanish pilgrims waiting in line for internet, so I should run.  Three things:

1. Check out the map

2. Soon to come, a list of daily stats

3. I need a name for the bike.  I´m taking entries, so start sending me emails!